Saturday, October 14, 2017

Part 5 : MP & UP Trip - Varanasi & Sarnath


14-Oct-17            Saturday              8              Varanasi             


Morning boat rides to arati [ Assi ghat : Rs 400 ] ,evening arati [200] and walk tour [Rs 600]


Varanasi

By foot is the only way to see the waterfront and the ghats - but be ready to be hot, sweaty, and lost - locals are usually happy to point you in the right direction. The names of ghats and signs pointing to restaurants and hotels are often painted on the walls in Roman letters. For better orientation, walk into any book store and pick up a small guide/map book that will have the list of all the ghats and their historical background.

Walking Tours are operated by many companies, with the cheapest being the daily tours operated by Stops Hostel (₹100 plus transportation, 3 hours). Walking tours are a great way to see some of the harder-to-find sights such as the Flower Market and Ayurvedic Herb Market.

By cycle-rickshaw and auto-rickshaw
The chaotic streets of Varanasi are sometimes too much to handle by foot. Therefore, it will often be convenient to travel by cycle rickshaw or auto-rickshaw. A short journey of a few kilometers should cost under ₹50, while a longer journey within the city, such as between the ghats and the train station, will cost ₹100. Further journeys, such as to Sarnath (10km), cost ₹200 each way by auto-rickshaw. If you take a "Shared rickshaw" you can get everywhere for ₹20, be patient and insist on wanting a shared one.
There is a pre-paid auto-rickshaw stand at the Varanasi Junction (Cantt) train station.


By Maharaja Rickshaw
The city also has Maharaja Rickshaw(or Mr Rickshaw Wala) run by a new company which offers tailored luxury experience at very low price(starting INR250 per person). This creates all together a different experience of seeing city and also the drivers are very friendly.

Some of the most popular ghats, from north to south:







Panchganga Ghat - the meeting of the five rivers
Manikarnika Ghat - the main cremation ghat; a must-see, but remain quiet and never take photographs (note: scams are plentiful here; see the "Staying Safe" section)
Dasaswamedh Ghat - known as the 'main' ghat, this is the site of the large evening aarti ceremony







Rana Ghat
Kedar Ghat - brightly painted in stripes and busy with bathers, very photogenic
Narad Ghat - the ghat on which bathing with spouse is not advised because the legend of contention
Harishchandra Ghat - the cremation place where Raja Harishchandra did the last rituals of his son.
Hanuman Ghat
Shivala Ghat
Tulsi Ghat - site of the large water purification plant
Assi Ghat - a popular place to stay, with many hotels, restaurants, and internet cafes








Watch Indians bathing in the Ganges - Over 60,000 people come to the ghats every day to take a dip in the sacred waters of the Ganga, most notably at sunrise. This is a fantastic sight to see. However, due to the sewage pipes that discharge feces into the river, along with sunken corpses, there is a risk of infection from numerous diseases such as hepatitis and bacteria such as e-coli. Reports have shown that the Ganges water has a fecal coliform MPN of 88,000 per 100ml, compared to a desirable fecal coliform MPN of 500 per 100ml.

Boat rides - Very popular, especially at sunrise and sunset. Boats can either be rowboats or motorboats. The most popular sunset ride is to start at Dasaswamedh Ghat or one of the many ghats along the river and head up to Manikarnika Ghat to see the cremations, then down to Dasaswamedh just after sunset to watch the evening aarti ceremony from the boat. Sunrise is another magical time for a ride, when the ghats are filled with Hindus bathing and starting their day - one of the most famous sights in India. You can bargain the price of the boat ride to around ₹50/person per hour. During the boat ride, other boats, usually manned by children, will float up to your boat to sell bowls with flowers and a candle to be offered to the river (₹10) or masala chai (₹10), or various trinkets that are overpriced. It is recommended to avoid polluting the river further by 'offering' non-biodegradable objects to the river. At Nishadraj Ghat, a few minutes walk from Assi Ghat, you can find a boat driver named Bhomi, a local singer renowned for his incredible voice and charming, beautiful songs; during the boat ride he sings anything from local folk songs to modern film songs and old devotional ones, and often improvises lyrics over his own songs to communicate with you and the various people gathered on the ghats.

Explore the alleyways - The sounds, sight and smells are just unbelievable! Walk along the ghats and up to the sights.

Alamagir Mosque, (overlooking Panchganga Ghat). a great place for a bird's eye view of the area.  edit
Durga Temple.  edit
Gauri Matha Temple. The devi at this temple is supposed to be the sister of the lord Kashi Vishwanath. Its a tradition to visit here just before you leave Kashi. You buy sea shells at this place and offer them to God saying that the virtues of donating the shells goes to her while you keep the virtues of having visited the holy shrines in Kashi and bathing in the ganga. The trip to Kashi is expected to yield results only after completing this custom.  edit
Kaal Bhairav Temple. Dedicated to Kaal Bhairav, a dreaded form of the Lord in Shiva avatar symbolizing death. Its a tradition to buy a black thread (Rs. 15), sanctify it in the shrine, then wear it on the arm, wrist or around the neck as protection against evil.  edit
Nepali Hindu Temple, (near Lalita Ghat). A small golden temple, built in Nepali architecture  edit
Shri Kashi Vishwanth Temple (Golden Temple), [1]. Security is tight making entrance difficult and sometimes completely off limits to foreigners. No bags, cellphones or pens are allowed. They can be deposited in the shops by the temple entrance. The temple was destroyed multiple times by Mughal invaders and was re-constructed by Hindu kings who followed them.  edit
Sankat Mochan Temple. The famous Hanuman temple, home to thousands of monkeys. Security is tight, mobile phones, keys etc. are not allowed inside the temple as a result of moslem terrorist bomb blasts; and as you enter you will be greeted by the sight of hundreds of monkeys on the premises. Beware- they may snatch from you if they see you carrying boxes or packets of food. Inside the temple you will find stacks of hanuman chalisa text for the use of devotees.  edit
Tulsi Manas Temple.
Banarasi Khana, or local delicacies, are known for their flavors. Many dishes here are flavored with asafoetida, ginger, bay leaves, cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, and/or dried fenugreek leaves.
Benares Dum Aloo is different from the dum aloo cooked elsewhere in India because the potatoes are stuffed with and cooked in a gravy that includes jaggery, fennel, and chili paste.
Varanasi is also known for its street food and chaat vendors. Aloo chaat is very common.
Varanasi Paan is famous all over India and the world. Paan is an assortment of flavors wrapped in a betel leaf. There are two versions: One that includes tobacco, and one that includes only sweet flavors. The exact ingredients depend on how much you offer, which can be as little as ₹10 or as much as ₹300. To eat the sweet version, shove the entire leaf in your mouth at once and chew until you swallow!
Rabri Malai Balai is a popular dessert in Varanasi that includes milk, sugar, almonds, and pistachio nuts. You can find it served in hole-in-the-wall or sweet shops.
There are plenty of food outlets with a very dynamic range in quality. The restaurants closer to the ghats cater more to foreign tourists, with variable success.
Keshav Tambool Bhandaar: (near B.H.U.,Ravidas Gate) Paan with natural ingredients.
Shiv Lassi Bhandar: (near the main gate of RamNagar Fort) Lassi with layers of Malai and Rabri. Superb Stuff.
Kashi Chat Center: (near Godowlia Crossing) Good assortment of exotic chats. Try out the Aloo Tikia Chat.
Madhur Jalpan:The best place for laddoos and other famous sweet delicacies is 'Madhur Jalpan', a shop that has been frequented by more than two prime ministers of India! Madhur Jalpan is on Baradev - next to the Kainiya Chitra Mandir (now Spice KCM). Again, on a small alleyway, but the sweets are to die for.

Sarnath (10km from Varanasi) -

It is believed that in Sarnath Buddha gave his first sermon to his disciples after getting enlightenment. There is also a Museum in Sarnath. The location is also known as Deer Park. Sarnath is 13 Km from Varanasi and is very peaceful. Several Asian countries have built Buddhist temples there following their own ancient architectural traditions.


















15-Oct-17            Sunday 9              Train     


Morning Aarti at Assi ghat [Boting:400]
I would suggest you take a walk towards assi ghat in the morning , a good 30 min one way walk to view aarti.Walk along the ghats in the morning is something special. 

Thursday, October 12, 2017

Part 4 : MP & UP Trip - Gwalior


12-Oct-17            Thursday             6              Gwalior


After having our breakfast Started around 7am. Booked an auto for the day visit. Visited all renowned places like Gwalior fort, saas-bahu temple, taeli ka mandir, Gurudwara, Jai vilas palace, tan sen tomb etc. and back to hotel by 6.30 pm. Didn’t watched the Light& Sound show.             Gwalior day visit: 750


Gwalior

Gwalior Zoo

The zoo of the city is well known for its proper upkeep and kind treatment to animals. The zoo is known for its stellar medical care to animals. The main attractions of the zoo are Krishnamrigs (Blackbucks) and Tiger cubs.


Mall & park





Gwalior Fort
The fort is known as the Gibraltar of India and various rulers at different points of time has praised the architectural design and its resilience. It is situated on a hillock with the city surrounding it on all sides , the fort is a very lively one with many of the routines of the city's residents tied to it.




































Sasbahu Temple,
Sasbahu Temple, also called the Sas-Bahu Mandir, Sas-Bahu Temples, Sahastrabahu Temple or Harisadanam temple, is an 11th-century twin temple in Gwalior, Madhya Pradesh, India. Near the Gwalior Fort and dedicated to Vishnu in his Padmanabha form, like most Hindu and Jain temples in this region, it is mostly in ruins and was badly damaged from numerous invasions and Hindu-Muslim wars in the region.[4] It was built in 1093 by King Mahipala of the Kachchhapaghata dynasty, according to an inscription found in the larger of the twin temple. The twin temples are situated in the Gwalior Fort.














The temple's tower and sanctum has been destroyed, but its architecture and damaged carvings can still be appreciated from the ruins. The jagati platform is 100 feet (30 m) long and 60 feet (18 m) wide, on a square plan.[2] The temple was three-storeyed, which was one of its distinguishing features and sophistication. It followed a central cluster concept, states Adam Hardy. The surviving elements of the temple are the entrance porch and the mandapa.[2]According to James Harle, though the prasada (tower, spire) no longer exists, the triple storey plan with a cruciform foundation and balconies suggests that it had a North Indian Bhumija style architecture. This style, states Harle, is marked by a well proportioned superstructure, its "regularly arranged little subordinate sikharas strung out like gigantic beaded garlands"

Gurudwara Data Bandi Chod
The famed gurudwara is frequented by a lot of foreign tourists who wish to experience the serene surroundings of a place of worship. The gurudwara is famous throughout the country and houses many facilites for the pilgrims. The ongoing Langar, offers free food service to all who visit the holy place. One of the other prominent gurudwaras is located in the Nadi gate area of Phoolbagh from which a shuttle service can be utilised to reach the more famous shrine over the hilltop.








Teli Ka Mandir





Ghaus's Tomb enclave
Muhammad Ghawth also known as Ghaus Mohammed was one of the most noted Sufis of his times and he was the guru of Tansen, one of the Navratnas of Akbar's court. The Samdhi of Tansen is also housed in the enclave. The site also doubles up as the venue for the Tansen Music Festival






The Jai Vilas Mahal (Jai Vilas Palace) - Museum

It is a nineteenth century palace in Gwalior, India. It was established in 1874 by Jayajirao Scindia, the Maharaja of Gwalior and is still the residence of his descendants the former royal Maratha Scindia dynasty.





It is a fine example of European architecture, designed and built by Sir Michael Filose. A combination of architectural styles, the first storey is Tuscan, the second Italian-Doric and the third Corinthian. The area of the Jai Vilas palace is 1,240,771 square feet and it is particularly famous for its large Durbar Hall. The interior of the Durbar Hall is decorated with gilt and gold furnishings and adorned with a huge carpet and gigantic chandeliers. It is 100 feet long, 50 feet wide and 41 feet in height.

Supposedly, eight elephants were suspended from the durbar (royal court) hall ceiling to check it could cope with two 12.5m-high, 3.5-tonne chandeliers with 250 light bulbs, said to be the largest pair in the world.


Bizarre items fill the rooms: cut-glass furniture, stuffed tigers and a ladies-only swimming pool with its own boat. The cavernous dining room displays the pièce de résistance, a model railway with a silver train that carried after-dinner brandy and cigars around the table.


Italian Garden enclave.
This enclave provides the residents of the city to beat the summer heat and also serves as a popular picnic spot for school children. The garden has extensive network of stone fountains which lend a unique splendor. The garden is connected with Moti Mahal, a former palace of the Scindia's which serves as the commissioner's office and displays a rich gallery of wall paintings. This is also connected with BaijaTal which serves as one of the most preferred venues for cultural performances. A boat club and various food stalls catering to different tastes are also housed in the area.

Samadhi of Rani Laxmi Bai
Rani Lakshmibai along with Tatya Tope remains one of the most revered freedom fighters in the minds of the general populace and an annual fair is organised in her rememberance in the Phoolbagh Area. The most prominent road of the city is named after her. Alongside the Samadhi various gardens are situated namely PhoolBagh and Ambedkar which serve as the rendezvous point for the residents and tourists alike.


Sarod Ghar
This is the ancestral house of Sarod maestro Ustad Amjad Ali Khan which now has been converted into a museum. A must for all music lovers.

Chhatris of Scindia Dynasty
The chhatris are situated in the Lakshmiganj area midst a bustling marketplace. The area also houses a Stadium which also serves as the venue for various community food festivals.


Gopachal Parvat
One of the holiest places for the people following the Jain faith in the city. It is said to house the biggest statue of parsvanath in sitting posture in the world. During the evening the lighting of the area provides a unique picturesque hue.

Sanatana Dharma Mandir and Achaleshwar
These two are arguably the most famous temples of the city located nearby each other. Sanatana Dharma Mandir is dedicated to Lord Krishna and is governed by the Sanatana Dharma Mandala, which is the most powerful religious body of the city. The achaleshwar temple is dedicated to lord Shiva and devotees from all of the surrounding areas come to pay their respects. The temple complex at present is undergoing expansion and the temple trust is also known for celebrating Ganesh Chaturthi celebration with unmatched exuberance and extravagance.

Koteshwar
This temple is one of the oldest temples in the city and has one of the biggest temple premises in the city. The temple is dedicated to lord Shiva and a huge fair is organized on the day of Mahashivratri which sees participation from not only the city but the surrounding villages as well. The temple is governed by the Devsthan trust and the Monday prayers during the month of Savan are a sight to behold and cherish.

Ram Mandir
The temple dedicated to lord Rama is situated in one of the busiest market places of the city. The regular evening prayers are serene, sincere and the devotion of the devotees is inspiring. The temple is also known for the beauty of its idols.

Surya Mandir (Sun Temple)
The temple is dedicated to the Sun god Vivaswan and was constructed as a replica to the more famous Konark Sun Temple. The temple is constructed using Red sand stone and white marble. It was constructed in 1988 by G.D. Birla , one of the prominent industrialists of the country.

Mandare Ki Mata
The temple is dedicated to the divine mother and is situated near Gajra Raja Medical College atop a hillock. The temple was constructed in 1715 by Anand Rao Mandare.

Other prominent temples in the region include Garagaj Ke Hanuman temple which is dedicated to lord Hanuman situated in the Bahodapur region of the city, Khedapati temple which is situated near the Phoolbagh area is also dedicated to lord Hanuman. Other famous temples include Sheetla Mata mandir dedicated to the divine goddess and Sai Baba temple in Sevanagar. Many other small but old temples dot the landscape of the city.






13-Oct-17            Friday   7              Train     
Train from Gwalior @20:40